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Installation Instructions

 

Installation
 
Preparation
 
Please follow the health and safety regulations when building your log cabin:
 
Wear safety goggles when drilling, cutting, or sawing; wear gloves when hammering.
Always cut away from yourself when using a knife or a chisel; do not wrap your fingers behind any piece of wood that you are cutting or sawing.
Take care not to cut through electrical cables when using corded electrical tools.
Pay particular attention when using ladders or working on the roof. Make sure your ladder stands on firm ground and ensure it is leaning on a solid object.
Do not leave heavy or sharp objects in places where they could fall down.
Wear safety gloves to minimize the chance of getting a splinter.
Keep children away from the area where you are working and away from ladders, tools, and cabin components.
 
Tools needed -
 Spirit-level, set square, ladders, drill, screwdriver bits, tape measure, rubber mallet, hand saw, pliers, sandpaper, plane, Stanley knife, hammer
 
Sorting the parts
 
Most instructions will advise you to sort the parts based on the wall plans and place them at the four sides of the base in the installation sequence. In reality this is very impractical, as most of us do not have enough space in our gardens.
 
We find that if the cabin logs are stacked in separate piles according to size, this is adequate. Were there are small logs for example beside doors and windows, we often stack some of these on the base next to where we will use them.
 
TIP: Never place the wooden components directly on grass or a muddy surface because it will be extremely difficult (or impossible) to clean them later!

Cabin Assembly
 
ATTENTION: The cabin package includes marked hammer blocks (a piece of wall log approximately 20-30 cm long). The drawings have the parts marked with three-digit position numbers. The exact positions can be found in the specification parts list.
 
Base frame (Foundation joists)
 
The base frame of the cabin must be completely flat and level to ensure that the installation proceeds without problems.
 
ATTENTION: different cabins may have different design foundation bearers – see the base drawing in your plans.
 
Place the impregnated bearers on the prepared base in accordance with the drawing at equal intervals. Make sure that the bearers are level and “square” prior to screwing them together.
 
Installation of foundation joists:
 
 
 
TIP: It is recommended to place a damp-proof course between the bearers and the base, which will protect the cabin from moisture and decay.
 
Walls
 
When installing the walls, it is important to remember that the logs are always assembled with their tongues upwards! If necessary, use the hammer block and a rubber mallet or hammer. However, never hit the tongue with the mallet/hammer directly!
 
Install the walls in accordance with the wall plans supplied. First place the half logs front and back (or side and side) and the first full logs. Attach them with screws to the bearers in each corner. Ensure the first layer of logs extends slightly over the bearers: the logs must extend over the bearers by about 5mm. This will thus protect the house from moisture, allowing the free flow of rainwater into the ground.
 
IMPORTANT: After the first layer of logs, check the diagonal measurements match and, if necessary, move them accordingly. Only if the diagonal lengths are completely equal is the base frame ‘square’ and you can attach the logs.
 
TIP: When you have squared off the first row of half and full logs, temporarily loosely fit a full size back log across the front section. This is so you know that you have left the correct size gap for the door. Remove this log when you have squared off, and then screw in through the corner notches as normal.
 
Continue the installation of the walls by strongly forcing the wall logs into one another. If necessary, use the hammer block and mallet. At the same time do not forget to begin the installation of the door and windows. You should begin the door installation after the 5th-6th layer of logs.
 
Door and windows
 
The door frame of a double door is delivered in separate parts due to transportation efficiency. (Single door is delivered fully assembled already).
 
To assemble a double door, lay the 4 pieces on the ground (on some plastic) and screw them together. Make sure that the part of the frame with the deeper notch is installed upwards. The side jamb parts have hinges and are mirrored. The bottom part is metal covered. It is recommended to install the door leafs later.
 
Door frame:
 
If your building has double doors, drill a hole for a fastener. However, before doing this, adjust each door side equally and parallel to the other. Next, mark the area of the fastener onto the frame.Drill a hole in the mark with a diameter of 8mm and a depth of 15mm. After that, push the cylinder to the hole. Double doors have a fillet (included in the door package) to block the wind, which goes outside of the opening door leaf and is screwed on with small screws.
 
Door installation:
 
All of our doors open to the outside. Please ensure they are facing the correct direction. The doorframe is placed between the wall logs (4-5 rows high) and is pushed with force down so that it sits flat on the bearer. If it is a double door, you can fit the doors now. To open and close the door, fit the separately packaged lock and handle with the screws provided.
 
Window installation:
 
Continue with the installation of the wall logs until you reach the window height. The wall plans show how many logs go under the window. Install the window similarly to the door. Make sure that you put the window facing the correct direction. Some cabins have inward opening tilt turn windows, and some have outward opening windows. Make sure you put the window in the correct way up! There is a hole for the window handle in the middle of the frame, which must face inwards. Exactly like the door, push the frame with the window into the window aperture onto the lower log with force.
 
ATTENTION: It is not necessary to fix the doors and windows to the wall logs! However, if so wished, it is sufficient to fix them with a couple of screws in the lower part of the frame (the logs can expand/shrink, depending on the weather). You can conduct the final adjustments of the doors and windows only about 2-3 weeks after the cabin installation, when the cabin has adapted to weather conditions and its logs have settled.
 
Apex
 
In most cases, the apex is supplied in one piece (with some cabins, the apex parts will have to be screwed together prior to the next steps). Having installed the last wall logs, place the apex on the front and back walls and attach them with screws.
 
The apexes have indents for the rafters. The rafters also have the corresponding indents ensuring that the roof is placed firmly and in the right place. Place the rafters in the corresponding indents in the apexes.
 
ATTENTION: If the wall logs are not properly pressed on top of one another and have gaps, the upper wall log may not be on the same level with the apexes. In this case you should tap the wall logs downwards as necessary or place the apex or side wall log somewhat lower. Make sure that the upper wall log, apexes and rafters are level. You may need to use a planer. Having fitted the rafters, screw them onto the apex from above.
 
Posts
 
If your cabin has posts, please put them in the right place right after constructing the walls and before you proceed with the roof. Posts must be put in special holes or be fixed with metal corners on top and with post height adjustments from below. Adjust the height of the post by turning the adjustment.
 
Roof
 
Before installing the roof boards, make sure that the house is completely level. Use the spirit-level to check all walls.
 
When placing the roof, use a stable ladder. Do not step on the roof as the structure is suitable to sustain only an even load (snow, wind, etc.), and not a point load. Begin the installation of the roof boards from the front edge of the roof. Tap the boards lightly and attach them from above and below with nails to the rafters and upper wall log.
 
ATTENTION: Do not press the roof boards together too tight so you will avoid moisture-caused bulging. Leave an interval of about 1 mm between the boards to allow expansion. During the whole process of installing the roof boards make sure that their crest rafters coincide and the eave sides of the boards extend at a uniform distance. Verify this with a rope or the lateral eave lath that you may install for verification purposes.
 
The roof boards must be even with the rafter ends in front and behind. If uneven, saw the boards accordingly.
 
Having installed the roof boards, the roof shingles and roof slats must be attached. The table of components shows whether the roof material and slats are included with your cabin package or not.
 
Installation of roof slats:
 
First screw the roof edge reinforcements and eave edgings under the roof board ends. Then install the roof cover material. (Roof cover is mostly supplied as an optional extra).
 
Cut the roof felt in accordance with the
roof length into suitable pieces and begin
installing them parallel to the lower edge of
the roof, moving toward the crest and
placing the felt strips in the direction from
the back wall to the front wall. The felt
should extend from the edge by
approximately 2-4 cm. Attach the roof felt
to the roof boards with the supplied felt nails at intervals of about 15 cm. Make sure that the felt strips overlap by at least 10 cm.
 
Having installed the roof cover material, attach the wind braces to the roof and the fascia boards to the rafters and upper wall logs.
 
Floor
 
Only when the cabin is completely finished, the floor boards can be installed, ensuring the floor remains clean. Place the floor boards on the base frame, tap them lightly against one another and then nail them with force to the foundation joists. If necessary cut the last floor board to the suitable width.
 
The final process involves the fitting of the floor beadings to cover the spaces between the floor boards and walls. If necessary, cut the floor beadings to the suitable length.
 
ATTENTION: Depending on the climate conditions in your area, the floor boards can either expand or shrink. If the floor boards are very dry while the climate is damp, they will easily absorb moisture. In this case, the floor boards should not be attached very densely to avoid likely bulging. Leave some space (1-2 mm) between the floor boards to allow for expansion. However, if the climate is warm and dry, you can install the boards densely because they will become drier and spaces may appear between them.
 
Storm braces
 
Optional. Attach the storm braces (if included in the supplied kit) to the apex walls with the supplied bolts. It is important for the logs to be drilled through in advance.
 
TIP: Make sure that the storm braces are attached to the apex log from above and to the middle of the first full-length wall log from below.
 
Do not turn the screws tightly so wood can further expand or diminish. With the cabin finished, adjust the attachments so the wall logs can settle.
 
Sometimes (cabins with 70mm wall thickness and up) instead of storm braces, treaded rods should be used. Put the rods from above in the predrilled holes on every corner of your cabin. Fix the rods with the drive nuts on top, a washer and “normal” nuts on the lower end.
 
Tips:
 
If the gaps appear between the wall logs, it’s because additional details are attached to the house that do not allow wood to expand/diminish. If the door/window is attached to the wall logs with screws/nails, remove these screws/nails; If the storm brace is screwed on too tightly, loosen its attachment; If down pipes are installed on the wall, loosen their attachments.
 
If the doors and windows become stuck, check whether the cabin is leveled. Level the foundation joists and walls. Another possibility is that the doors and windows have expanded due to moisture. Adjust the door and window hinges; if necessary, plane the door or window narrower.
 
Finally...
 
Wood is a natural material. None of the logs in your cabin are alike. They will expand and contract to reflect changes in the moisture content of their surroundings. They come with natural markings and imperfections that make your cabin unique. Expansion and contraction can cause slight deformation in some of your cabin components.
 
After construction, the entire cabin tends to settle. The amount of settling varies from cabin to cabin. After a few weeks, check joints and screws. Some screws may need to be tightened or relocated.
 
Doors and windows may need adjustments. Storm braces may need to be adjusted. After a while cracks may appear in some timbers, but there is no need to worry: cracks are natural. They will not reduce the strength or the warmth of your cabin.
 
If you need further information or would like to discuss how to treat your cabin please feel free to contact your supplier.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Insulation supplied by Perfect Cabins:

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

0845 017 08 54 (Lo-Call - leave message)

07931 363227 (mobile)

 
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Sep 19, 2020

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